If you're going to the Caribbean and want nightlife, shopping and a little golf mixed in with your sand and sunshine then a trip to Grand Cayman Island, a one-hour flight from Miami, might be the place for you.

But if you want serenity and the world's greatest scuba diving and snorkeling sites you will need to skip a few miles on over to Grand Cayman's little sisters -- Cayman Brac and Little Cayman islands.

All three of these islands -- once the haunts of such pirates as Blackbeard -- have lots to offer, but the Brac and Little Cayman are unique in the sense they are home to what many claim is the best diving sites in the world.

The crystal-clear waters of the Bloody Bay diving area off Little Cayman is particularly known as the Rolls Royce locale for underwater adventurers.

Bloody Bay offers a wall of underwater wonder, with an abundance of marine life and water clarity perhaps unequalled anywhere in the world. And the temperate climate of the Caymans means the water temperature is in the 70s year around.

Bloody Bay offers more than a half-dozen dive sites, with everything from rainbow coral to practically every kind of fish and sea life. I swam to within five feet of a large green moray eel basking in a craggy cove and could have reached out and touched a green sea turtle waggling by. It is not unusual to see a variety of manta rays, barracudas, sand/nurse sharks (they are not aggressive, so divers are OK around them), angel fish and so many red, orange, white, green, blue and yellow fish one would think an artist spilled a Paul Bunyon-size palette into the sea.

The Bloody Bay sites also offer a lot of interesting terrain to swim over, around or through, including numerous cuts in which you can actually swim under overhanging coral, rock and sea fauna. The Bloody Bay wall extends down to about 50-60 feet and then drops off as a sheer cliff to more than 6,000 feet. Of course, no scuba diving is done at those depths, with the max dive in the 90-foot range.

There are several dive operations on Little Cayman and Cayman Brac but the big one is the Reef Divers group, which operates a fleet of 42-to- 46-foot dive boats out of the Brac Reef and Little Cayman Reef resorts. They provide up to six dives a day.

New divers are offered a diving course, which includes a day in a swimming pool to learn the basics of diving before tackling the open water dives. I was apprehensive about taking on this new adventure, but found I easily picked up the techniques of using the scuba equipment to breathe underwater.

Most people can learn the technique quickly as long as they manage to stay calm and not have a panic attack when they jump into a deep sea, said one dive instructor.

Reef divers can furnish students all the diving equipment, including wet suit. "All you need to do is bring a bathing suit," said one instructor."

I was surprised on my diving excursions to see several men and women in their late 60s and early 70s taking on the briny deep. I found many of them to be world travelers who have returned to the Caymans many times to do their diving, saying the Caymans offer the most satisfying diving in the world.

Why is diving in the Caymans so good. For one thing the islands are not mountainous and don't have rivers, so there is no run-off into the oceans, inhibiting reef development. Also, all three Cayman Islands are actually the tops of submerged mountains with underwater walls all around the islands, reaching in some areas 20,000 feet or more in depth. The islands have also protected this resource by establishing Marine Parks, limiting fishing, spear fishing, outlawing anchoring, educating divers and self-policing the behavior of dive operations.

"I have been all over and this is by far the best dive sites I have ever seen," said John Callione of Philadelphia, Pa. "I have been here five times."

"What I like about this place is the abundance of colorful sea life," said Mrs. Wilma Collins of Boston, Ms. "The underwater photo opportunities are fantastic here. I have already shot about a hundred pictures."

Also of note is the fact that many overweight people are involved in scuba diving. I suppose the weightless atmosphere under the waves gives them an arena where tonnage is irrelevant.

You don't see many youngsters scuba diving, since the age limit is 12.

When you are not diving, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman offer other ways to relax and spend your time. The Brac is about 12 miles long and one mile wide while Little Cayman is about eight miles long and one mile wide.

Both have plenty of white sand beaches. Both also offer plenty of birdwatching, with Cayman parrots, redfooted boobies and graceful frigates among the dozens of varieties.

The islands are practically flat, which means biking around them is relatively easy. There are also car rental outlets on both islands.

Cayman Brac is a beautiful island with a rocky interior swooping to a 140-foot limestone bluff on the eastern end, a delight to rock climbers and naturalists alike. Home to the endangered Brac Parrot (and not a single traffic light), it is a stopover for almost 200 migrating birds. There are about 200 caves tucked into the landscape for curious visitors of all abilities to explore.

How does Brac differ from Little Cayman? It possesses 120 dive sites and is the only place one can wreck-dive and see the Russian Frigate 356 – MV Capt. Keith Tibbets, sunk in September 1996. The bow sits in 110 feet of water, with the stern at 65 feet. The radar tower starts in about 15 feet so this is an excellent dive for snorkellers as well as divers. Over 100 species of marine life have been documented in the short time the ship has been down. The wreck has been made diver-friendly and portions of it are penetrable. There is also the Cayman Mariner on the East Chute, a short distance inshore, in 55 feet on a sand bottom. Sunk in 1986, she now attracts exciting marine life such as turtles, Green Moray Eels and schooling Barracuda. Not to be forgotten are the Prince Frederick Wreck and the Kissimmee.

Brac Reef Beach Resort is a family-owned getaway located on 4.5 acres of milky white beachfront. It is only a 30-45 minute boat ride away from Rodale’s 2005 Readers’ Choice Awards for the Caribbean: #1 Top Wall Diving, #1 Healthiest Marine Environment, #3 Best Destination for Underwater Photography and #2 Best Destination for Advanced Diving.

While diving is a specialty, Brac Reef caters to divers and non-divers alike, welcoming families, small conferences, wedding and honeymoon guests. Brac has an award-winning on-site dive shop, Reef Divers II, and award-winning Jamaican chefs. The resort offers visitors the only opportunities on the island to pamper themselves at Tropical Touch Day Spa, to log on through Cyber Beach internet access and to work out at Island Shapes Fitness Center.

Guests can also indulge in an outdoor massage under the shade of Brac Reef’s two-story pier, with snorkeling, kayaking, fishing, tennis, beach volleyball, hiking and biking also options.

The Tibbetts family, one of the original families who settled the island in the 1830s, owns Brac Reef Beach Resort. Born and raised on the island, Linton Tibbetts, or “Mr. T,” opened Brac Reef in the early 1980s to help stimulate the island’s economy. “Dad just has a heart for the islands, and I think he’s instilled in all of us a passion for this place and our heritage,” said Mary Brandes, Mr.T’s daughter and managing director of Brac Reef.

The Brac also has some interesting bat caves tourists can check out. These caves also serve as shelter for residents in the event of a hurricane (such as the devastating Hurriance Ivan of 2004, which hit Grand Cayman hard but only brushed Little Cayman and Cayman Brac. These caves are developed and not just dirt and sand entrances.

Little Cayman offers a real feel of being on a remote island. The tiny airport includes a grass runway. Less than 100 people live permanently on Little Cayman. Uniquely enough, the island has its own fire department (three firemen) and police department (two officers). One fireman told me their last structure fire was in 1998. "We have to put out a grass fire every once in awhile," said a fireman. Crime is practically nonexistant on both the Brac and Little Cayman.

Cayman Brac has about 2,000 residents (Grand Cayman has about 30,000 people, most of them living in the capital city of George Town). George Town, which has the only two regular golf courses in the islands, is where the cruise ships dock.

Just hanging around the resorts when not diving is not exactly hard to take, either. Both have extensive grounds, with hammocks strung between palm trees all over the place. These are incredibly nice for lounging with a book or just swaying in the Caribbean breeze watching colorful birds flit about in the trees. Both have hammocks on docks extended some 150 feet out into the ocean. I found one hammock on a second level of the dock particularly appealing, just lying there enjoying the warm breeze and the sound of waves breaking on the coral reefs only 40 feet away.

Another way to relax is sitting in a two-person swing under palm trees, gently dragging your toes in the white sand and watching the frothy waves nearby.

The resorts have nice pools, of course, and they provide exercise equipment rooms for those trying to keep in shape. Cable TV and internet access is also available (interestingly, the channels 2-13 cable outlets include stations in Erie, Pa., and New York City but no Miami stations).

Both have nice open-air bars (with entertainment regularly, including karioke nights).

Food is served buffet style three meals a day and the fare is excellent, ranging anywhere from burgers to steak and lobster.

Both resorts provide an interesting form of memorablia for the guests. The resorts supply a paint kit, which guests use to paint messages, witticism, etc., on rocks and pieces of wood to be placed willy-nilly around the resort grounds. Its a fun way of memoralizing your trip and thousands of guests have left little messages and artwork around the properties. I had to leave my own little "Kilroy was here" message, too, of course.

The Caymans were first discovered by the explorer Columbus in 1503. He named them El Tortugas (the Spanish name for turtles) because of the large numbers of turtles he saw there.

The islands eventually became part of the British empire and remain tied to Britain (Prince Charles visited a few years ago) as a Crown Colony. The islands British influence can be seen in the language (British accent on such words as "colour" for color, etc.) and the fact motorists must drive on the left side of the roads.

The Caymans, which once used Jamacian currency (Jamaica is the closest large island), now have their own currency (the U. S. dollar is worth about 80 cents in Cayman currency).

Medical assistance is available on Cayman Brac and Grand Cayman, but only emergency care on Little Cayman.

If visiting Little Cayman, take time to visit the National Trust building, a sort of museum-craft shop, where you can use fixed telescopes to view the abundant bird life.

Little Cayman has another unique fact: It has inland ponds that include large fish washed in when hurricanes have hit (including Ivan in September 2004). These include Tarpon Pond, which covers about 150 acres.

"Large tarpon have been washed in here during hurricanes and some remain after the hurricanes," said Andy Murrah, manager of the Little Cayman Reef resort and an avid fisherman. "While not many real big tarpon remain its not unusual to catch a two-foot tarpon there."

Little Cayman also has a large population of rock iguana. These creatures, though fierce-looking, are relatively tame and can be approached within inches. Many tend to come out of the brush to roadways about 4-5 in the afternoons.

Both the Brac and Little Cayman also have hundreds of eight-inch-long curly-tailed lizards which seem to be scurrying all over the place.

Interestingly, the Caymans name derives from the small alligator creatures which once abundantly inhabited the islands. "But they were hunted to extinction . . . there is not one cayman left in the Cayman Islands," explained Murrah.

The Caymans have proven to be a popular spot for honeymoons and weddings.

Couples can marry the day they arrive in the Cayman Islands, including visitors arriving by cruise ship. You must first arrange for a marriage officer within the Cayman Islands and apply for a special marriage license for non-residents granted by the Governor. Contact the Deputy Chief Secretary's office for more information.

Many visitors consider the end of October to be an interesting time to visit Grand Cayman. This the period for the annual National Pirates Week Festival. There is a spectacular parade through George Town, heritage days throughout the week, costume contests, music, street dances, food festivals and sporting events during the 10-day celebration. Grand Cayman also offers a chance for visitors to view coral reefs in submarines, semi-submersibles and glass bottom boats. Also available is the famous Stingray City snorkel trip where everyone becomes a child at heart swimming with tamed southern stingrays in their natural habitat, the open sea and the Cayman Turtle Farm located in West Bay.

You will not find any nude beaches or gambling casinos in the Cayman Islands (topless sunbathing is prohibited). Legal drinking age is 18.

You will need a valid passport and possibly a visa, or, if you are from the U.S., UK, Canada or any of the other Commonwealth countries an original birth certificate / proof of citizenship with current picture identification is sufficient. Please note that you are also required to have a return or ongoing ticket and that a Voter's Registration Card is no longer considered valid proof of U.S. citizenship and is therefore not valid ID for re-entry into the U.S.

The Atlantic hurricane season starts about June 1 and ends officially on Nov. 30. The Cayman Islands are located in the far Western Caribbean, 480 miles south of Miami, 150 miles south of Cuba, 180 miles Northwest of Jamaica. Most hurricanes have a tendency to veer to the Northwest (towards the U.S. mainland) long before reaching the far Western Caribbean area. Consequently, the Cayman Islands have often been spared the full wrath of devastating hurricanes, with the exception of Ivan in 2004. Prior to Hurricane Ivan the last occurred in 1932, and more recent brushes causing some property damage, were Hurricane Gilbert in 1988, which passed 30 miles south of Grand Cayman, and Hurricane Mitch in 1998 passing about 200 miles to the south.

The Caymans "rainy" season is generally from mid-May through October, with the "dry" season, from November to April. Even the "rainy" season brings only a few inches of rain, with brief showers followed by sunshine most of the day. The average temperature in the winter is 75 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees in the summer. Winter or summer, the temperature generally stays within the range of 70 - 90 degrees. The months with the least humidity and lowest temperatures are December through April, February occasionally recording night-time temperatures in the mid 60's, and March probably being the most "temperate" month of the year.

Here is booking info for both the Brac and Little Cayman:


Brac Reef Beach Resort

1-800-594-0843

www.bracreef.com

Specials available:

Clearly Cayman

May 1 – July 30, 2006

$1,195 person d/o

7-nights accommodations

6 days of two daily tank dives

Breakfast and dinner daily

Transfers, taxes and service fees

Fall Fling

August 11 – November 15, 2006

$999 person d/o

7-nights accommodations

6 days of two daily tank dives

Breakfast and dinner daily

Transfers, taxes and service fees

Free dive video

Little Cayman Beach Resort

1-800-327-3835

www.littlecayman.com

Specials available:

Summer Special

June 1 – July 31, 2006

$1297 person d/o

7 nights accommodations

17 boat dives

Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily

Transfers, taxes and service fees

Fall Special

August 1 – October 31

$1199 person d/o

7-nights accommodations

6 days of two daily tank dives

Breakfast and dinner daily

Transfers, taxes and service fees

This story was published on 01 Feb 2006.