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by Ken Paul Mink
PAGE, Ariz. -- Have you ever wondered what it might be like if you were able to go to the moon and found a beautiful blue-green lake there, stretching for hundreds of miles along huge caverns?
Probably not.
But if you ever want to see such a sight, take a look at Lake Powell, which begins at the dam here and meanders crystal-clear in moonscape fashion for hundreds of miles of shoreline into Utah.
Although not a broad lake, Powell is extremely diversified.
Its spiny branches stretch out in all directions, providing boaters a wealth of privacy, unique passageways, great fishing, wonderful swimming, unparalleled scenery and unending opportunities for shoreline camping, exploration and discovery.
Some of the red-and-yellow canyon walls stretch more than 1,200 feet, but narrow to 12-15 feet at water level. Boaters in runabouts can actually reach out and touch both sides of the sandstone canyon walls while traveling in some narrow areas.
Thousands of jagged cliffs and rock overhangs provide great jumping and diving areas for the more daring swimmers. There are also dozens of rock and secluded sand spit locations flat enough to tie up a boat and go swimming, picnicking or exploring.
The temperate climate (humidity usually runs low) provides wonderful overnight boating trip opportunities. There are nearly 600 houseboats and other types of boats available for single or multi-day rental.
Having experiences hundreds of lakes nationally and internationally and finding none of them equal to Lake Powell in diversity, uniqueness and beauty The Travelling Adventurer Magazine is hereby bestowing on Lake Powell the title of The World's Most Interesting Lake.
Set among towering canyons, mesas and buttes, Lake Powell provides picture postcard views at every turn. You can use up a roll of film 30 minutes into a boat trip.
The lake, 600 feet deep in some areas, is a popular location for America's moviemakers, with many movie and TV commercials having been shot here, including The Planet of the Apes. Many stars and moguls in the TV/movie business also regularly visit Lake Powell, taking advantage of its large number of isolated coves and natural beauty. While exploring the vast remote expanses around the lake it is entirely conceivable you might find yourself walking where no man has ever walked before. The rugged land looks no different now than it did thousands of years ago. You might even find a remnant of the Paleo-Indian people who hunted these lands some 11,000 years ago at the end of the Ice Age. Just make sure you don't get lost. Many men have died trying to explore this rugged region.
There are literally hundreds of rock formations resembling everything from people to potato chips. Many formations have special whimsical names such as Blooming Onion, Elephant's Dung, Rhino Head, Totem Pole, Gunsight, etc. One of the favorite places to visit is Rainbow Bridge, a natural rainbow-shaped rock formation.
The towering canyon walls and deep water moved one wag to observe: "If a rock fell from the top it would take two days to hit the water and a week to sink to the bottom."
Often annoying skiers and jet ski boats are not large in number, particularly in the 96 more narrow canyons and cove areas.
The lake is the gemstone of the one-million-acre Glen Canyon National Park, with waters from Lake Powell flowing into the Colorado River and on to the Grand Canyon a few dozen miles downstream.
The canyon itself was discovered by Major John Wesley (Glen) Powell while on a Colorado River expedition in 1869 and the park and lake were named for him. The lake is fed by Rocky Mountains snowmelt and several small rivers. Water temperatures in the summer are usually in the 70s. Construction on the lake started in 1956 and was completed in 1966. It then took 17 years for the lake to fill to its present level. During construction, the steep and rugged canyons caused construction workers to have to drive a circuitous 200-mile route to get from one side of the dam site to the other while a bridge was being constructed.
Lake Powell is like a thousand Dr. Jekylls and Mr. Hydes. It displays multiple personalities, depending upon the time of day and the lightning. What you see in the morning may look entirely different in the afternoon.
Because the lake is so huge (second only to Lake Mead in manmade U. S. lakes) it is impossible to cover it even remotely well in less than a week. Some have visited the lake hundreds of times and say they still experience new revelations each time out. But even a one-day trip can be an immensely enjoyable excursion.
The lake is extremely clean. In two days on the water we saw only one floating piece of garbage or debris.
In addition to the huge Wahweap Marina near the lodge, four other marinas serve the lake at various points in Utah and Arizona. But its about 50 miles between marinas, so if you're boating be sure to have extra supplies and fuel. Another large marina and hotel complex is planned near the dam area.
Daytime summer temperatures range into the 80s and 90s, but the mercury takes a sharp drop at night, providing great sleeping weather for campers and houseboaters.
Page is a town that was built entirely from scratch, going from just a dusty spot on the road in 1956 to a town of more than 6,000 people, with the usual complement of hotels, motels, restaurants and a golf course.
The park itself features Wahweap Lodge, a main building and series of lakefront buildings housing hundreds of guests each week. The lodge also features a first-class restaurant two lake-view pools and a spa. RV parks and campgrounds are also available at the park. Boat tours are available, including a dinner cruise on a paddlewheeler.
The lake gets about three million visitors a year, despite its relative remoteness, and those visiting during the summer months are advised to make their houseboat and/or hotel reservations a couple of months in advance. Houseboats run up to 59 feet long.
The two main entry points to Lake Powell are south at Page (U. S. Highway 89) and north at Bullfrog Visitor Center on Utah Highway 276. Sunrise Airlines offers commuter service from Phoenix and Denver to Page.
If visiting Lake Powell, one other site well worth seeing is the Navajo Indian-operated Antelope Slot Canyon, about four miles from the lodge area. This is a fascinating slot canyon, a narrow serpentine sandy trail of some 600 feet. The walls are hollowed out by numerous flash floods, leaving an ethereal sliver of spiral rock formations and sunlight patterns. The blowing sand and filtered in sunrays create eerie, almost mystical, effects. Flash flooding of the canyon can be dangerous (11 hikers died there in 1997), so a guided tour is recommended.
For information about Lake Powell call toll-free 1-800-528-6154 or visit the Internet web site at www.visitlakepowell.com. For Antelope Canyon information call 928-645-5594 or visit the web site at www.antelopecanyontours.com.
This story was published on 10 Feb 2004.
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