HELENA, Mont. -- I don’t know if Norman Rockwell ever visited this quaint little city in the heart of Montana’s cattle country.

But if he had he would have found a city as America was meant to be: Tree-shaded streets, a vibrant and unique downtown, well-regarded high schools and colleges, very low crime rate, a city full of Will Rogers-attitude folks, postcard views at every turn, low unemployment, a community with a sense of pride of ownership and a state capitol building that is a work of art unto itself.

Rockwell, perhaps America’s most famous realism artist who gained fame through his Saturday Evening Post covers, would have had a ball in Helena, finding slices of Americana on nearly every street.

Unlike so many other early bustling Western mining outposts that eventually became ghost towns, Helena is a gold boom town that refused to die when the yellow metal petered out, saved by its designation as the state capital and then capitalizing on its colorful history and beautiful surroundings to become a significant tourism locale.

The city and environs population is about 55,000 but as in all of Montana, cattle outnumber people by 3 to 1.

Which makes for pleasant views from everywhere as the city sits in a valley surrounded by snow-covered Rocky Mountain peaks (they had 5 inches of high elevation snow when I was there in mid-June). But temperatures range in the 60s and 70s during most of summer, so hiking, mountain biking, fishing, golf, tennis and horseback riding are among the many sunny options here.

The nearby Missouri River is chock-full of fish, particularly rainbow trout and brown trout. I took a four-mile float and got lots of bites, but I never hauled one in. But my wife nailed four beauties (see sidebar story “Tons of Fish, Fun Await in Helena”).

Though small by metropolitan standards, Helena has many of the cultural amenities big cities have, including a symphony orchestra, art museum and Shakespeare company. The only thing missing is the traffic jams (five cars backed up at a traffic light here is outrageous by local standards).

The biggest draws for tourists is the fishing (Missouri River and several lakes), nearby snow skiing, the Mansion District (dozens of majestic homes built at the turn of the century by gold barons), the fantastically beautiful capitol building, the historic Lewis and Clark Expedition connections (the county is even named Lewis and Clark County), the incredible Gates of the Mountain river scene, numerous local specialties restaurants, panning for gems and one of the most unique botanical gardens in the world.

Here’s a closer look at some of the most-visited sites:

CAPITOL BUILDING: Helena’s capitol is truly the Sistine Chapel of capitols. With its expansive marble steps, barrel colorful glass ceiling, statuary, beautiful and colorful murals and stained glass--all viewable from its stunning Rotunda, the capitol has all the cache of a world-class art museum. The artwork is more than just pretty pictures -- the vernacular-style murals capture the essence of the early history of Montana, including the Lewis and Clark Expedition, Gen. Custer, Indians, cowboys and prospectors. Dating to 1902, the original capitol was built at a cost of a little more than half a million dollars, but several wings were added over the years to accommodate government. All this set like a granite jewel in a park-like landscaped grounds. Self-guided tours are available daily.

GATES OF THE MOUNTAINS: This is a phenomenon on the Missouri River near Helena. When Merriwether Lewis was rowing up the river on July 19, 1805, his men came upon a section where the waterway narrowed among high cliffs. As they moved along the river there it appears the mountains were actually closing in, like a gate, blocking off access. But then when they moved the opposite way it appeared the cliffs were opening up, like a swinging gate. Lewis called it The Gates of the Mountains and that designation continues today. Boaters can take a trip down the canyon and for many miles view spectacular scenery along the towering (over 1,000 feet) canyon walls and forested areas. Many boaters have seen bear, deer, moose, elk, mountain lions and bighorn sheep along the way.

RIVERS, LAKES: The Missouri River is about a dozen miles from Helena and is accessible from many locations. Fishing is great and the scenery around the waterway is a treat for the eyes (on our approximate four-mile trip we saw two bald eagles, ospreys and other wildlife). There are several outfitters which offer full-equipment fishing trips (including day trips or multi-day trips). We fly fished with Geof Ferguson of Sleeping Giant Expeditions (email: [email protected], phone: 406-4435263). Geof has been fishing on the river more than 20 years and knew where to fish and what flies to use). Garry Stocker of Big Sky Expeditions (www.montanaflygoods.com, 800-466-9589) also accompanied us and gave us some valuable fly fishing tips before we started downstream. The nearby Smith River is also a fisherman’s haven, providing wilderness fly fishing and great scenery along a limestone canyon. Outfitters such as Big Sky Expeditions offer single or multi-day trips. One of the most fun and educational ways to see the Gates of the Mountains and the beautiful Missouri River canyon scenery is the Gates of the Mountains Boat Tours (www.gatesofthemountains.com, 406-458-5241), where visitors can sit inside or outside on double-decker cruise boats for the 105-minute tour (dinner tours are also offered). Holter, Hauser and Canyon Ferry lakes are located near Helena, with Canyon Ferry Lake the largest. All forms of boating, swimming, fishing and recreation is available to visitors.

TIZER BOTANIC GARDEN AND ARBORETUM: This is one of the most unique and interesting botanical areas I have ever seen. Intersected by fast-flowing Prickly Pear Creek, this is not your typical botanical displays. Numerous colorful bulbs, roses, perennial, annuals, the state’s largest collection of clematis and numerous tree species adorn the six-acre grounds and a picturesque native plant walking trail wends its way through the property, with several wooden bridges offering interesting views. Tizer Botanical, located about 6,000 feet above sea level, also provides some whimsy, as everything from shovels to picks have been grafted with trees, creating some unique arboreal scenes. And the owners have added further whimsy by using everything from ladies’ slippers to kids’ toys to grow plants. There is even one tree which has an engrained working water spigot. A furnished turn of the century log cabin gives visitors a look at pioneer conditions. Another unique aspect of the gardens: The owners have taken downed trees, trimmed them and turned them upside down, with the root structure providing a balcony for floral displays. For information: www.tizergardens.com, 866-933-8789.

ALSO: You can pan for valuable gems at the Spokane Bar Sapphire Mine (sapphire [email protected], 877-344-4367), attend local rodeos, visit the colorful Cathedral of St. Helen (the city’s most visible landmark), stroll through an expansive farmer’s market, check out the Helena Arboretum, get a close-up view of the city’s historic fire tower, stroll through a colorful and unique downtown walking mall (featuring many unique shops and restaurants), ride unique animals at the Great Northern Carousel, take the kids to the Exploration Works hands-on science museum, and dozens more interesting and fun locales.

The best way to experience Helena is to take a one-hour ride on the rubber-tire Last Chance Tour Train, which hits all the major points of interest with colorful narration along the way (including a look at the city’s oldest cabin where a handful of miners gave one final shot at digging for gold and hit pay dirt, thus forming the basis for the Last Chance designation given streets and businesses (www.lctours.com, 888-423-1023). You might even get Liz Bangerter -- one of Helena’s most informed and interesting guides -- as your host driver.

Helena has more than 1,000 hotel/motel rooms available (including the very nice Holiday Inn where I stayed, right in the center of the city -- General Manager Denise Trautman at 406-442-4030 or email at [email protected]).

The city also has many dozens of restaurants and one of the most interesting is the downtown Montana Club. Built during the gold rush days this historic and beautiful structure is open for public memberships ($200 a year) and its restaurant offers sumptuous fare daily to the public (www.montanaclub.com). The club also serves as center for progress, with government and business leaders meeting there each week to discuss ongoing projects.

For general Helena information: Helena Area Chamber of Commerce Convention and Visitors Bureau: 800-743-5362, www.GoHelena.com, www.HelenaChamber.com. Anyone can help you but ask for Mike Mergenthaler if he‘s available. He is a man who knows Helena like the back of his hand.

Montana is known as the Treasure State, and perhaps its biggest treasure is Helena.

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Tons of Fish and Fun Await in Helena


By Emilia Beth Mink

HELENA, Mt. -- I found it very difficult to pack my suitcase for a trip to Helena

No, the issue wasn't the weather, but instead how do I pack for hking, biking, horseback riding and fly fishing and then, of course, the museums, city tours, fine dining and naturally a bit of shopping (if I can make room in my suitcase).

I would like to expound on my favorite of all these activities: fly fishing. This area is an anglers paradise with a plethora of lakes and rivers to please the most experienced of fishermen or women, or the novice.

Fly fishing is not only a fun sport but is an important source of income for many families here, from boat rentals and equipment to guided fly fishing trips at Big Sky Expeditions with outfitter Gary Stocker and his crew at 3180 Dredge Dr. Suite A, Helena,Mt 59602 1- 800-466-9589 Web Site-www.montanaflygoods.com or contact Geof Ferguson at Sleeping Giant Expeditions 10 N. Quarry Rd. Clancy,Mt 59634 406-443-5263 E-mail: [email protected]. Goef knows the best times for streamers, nymphs and some dry activity with Midge and Baetis.

The Missouri River, Canyon Ferry Lake and Spring Meadow Lake provide some of the most incredible fly fishing and boating in the West.

The water on the "MO" is clear with an abundance of weed beds and September is the favorite time for local anglers to fish with hopper, Baetis and Caddis but to be sure Goef will know what to use and you will most surly leave with a string of pan frying, lip smacking rainbow or brown trout.

Wildlife and park studies show there are about 5,000 fish per mile in the upper river and about 3,000 per mile in the lower river, so it's easy to see why the locals have a freezer full of the finny darlings.

Last Chance Gulch is a most unusual name for a main street, but that is just what Helena's main street is named and with good reason. As the story is told, four gold miners from Georgia felt they had one last chance to find gold and so they did, in Helena and so the town grew with many millionaires and stately homes and mansions were built .

The Last Chance Trolley Train Tour is a great way to see these mansions and the city buildings and a history of Helena. The train can be boarded at the Montana Historical Society across from the Capitol.

The South Hills of Helena are a delight for hikers and bikers for most of the year-round due to the dry climate and Helena has one of the biggest city parks in the nation that stands 1000 feet above the city and on Saturday mornings the trolley offers free rides from downtown to the trails around the Mount Helena City Park.

I wonder if Lewis and Clark realized what a jewel they passed through around 200 years ago heading up the Missouri river, but a great many others did, 160 years later when they settled in Helena.

After a few days of being on the water, Land Ho mate! A bike ride to the Continental Divide just about 20 miles east of Helena is just the ticket to get my legs in shape for the long trek to catch my connecting flight in the airports.

Hotels rooms are plentiful with a range of about 1,000 rooms including B&BS.; The Best Western Great Northern Hotel located in the historic Town Center, home to retail shops, restaurants, The Great Northern Carousel and Ice Cream Company, Movie Theater and Exploration Works Museum will offer pleasurable options in planning a day of exploration in Helena. The Holiday Inn at 22 N.Last Chance Gulch is located in the heart of the city and a short walk or jog to shops and restaurants.

Old wagon train members heading west could have never imagined a ride like the Last Chance Ranch offers. Traveling back in time on a horse drawn wagon through a lush green forest to the Moose Meadow Tipi for a gourmet meal of prime rib, fresh garden salad, potatoes and fresh vegetables. What could be better than this? Well, I can only suggest but it might be huckleberry cheesecake, all served family style. Enjoy the live western entertainment featuring Montana's own Bruce Anfinson. The $76 per person fee includes wagon ride, gourmet meal, live music, and round trip transportation from historic Helena. Call 406-442-2884 or 800-505-2884 for reservations or more information

Another day and more to do. Well, try your luck picking through a pile of rocks looking for that perfect sapphire at Russ Thonpson's Spokane Bar Sapphire Mine & Gold Fever Rock Shop at 5360 Castles Road, Helena, Mt. 59602 1-877-DIGGEMS. The hours pass quickly and Russ assures us we will leave with some sapphires. uhh--- he didn't mention the back ache that I would leave with though, but it was worth it and lots of fun.

Look forward to having a fun filled trip to Helena and for more information be sure to call Mike Mergenthaler ,vice president of Helena's area Chamber of Commerce 406-447-1941 located at 225 Cruse Ave. Suite A or [email protected]

This story was published on 26 Jun 2010.