3/26

FYI, here is a story which I just did on the Hot Springs area and is being posted to our online travel magazine The Travelling Adventurer (www.travellingadventurer.com).

--Ken Mink




HOT SPRINGS, Arkansas -- How many places can claim that right smack in the middle of their city is a national park, lake, thoroughbred race track, casino, hundreds of hotels and restaurants, dozens of recreational pursuits, scenic mountains, hiking trails and legends galore.
Well, Hot Springs can -- and furthermore all these things are on just one street of the city, Central Avenue.
Hot Springs is truly one of America's most unique, interesting and attractive cities.
One would have to search far and wide to even find a city remotely as varied as Hot Springs.
Hot Springs is at the base of the Ouachita Mountains and because of its lovely setting and seemingly endless flow of 143-degree steamy mineral-rich water has become a city of both legend and lore.
Once a favorite place for native Indian tribes, this ancient misty land has become the heart of Arkansas tourism, with millions visiting each year.
After the turn of the century, the city's wonderful hot springs and scenic mountains attracted people from all walks of life -- from gangsters such as Al Capone to presidents such as Theodore Roosevelt -- and resulted in the city becoming one of the nation's hot spots for gambling and other wide-open activities during the 1920s.
But Hot Springs moved on and became a very respectable and attractive visitation site over the decades and today ranks as one of America's most favorite locales, surviving a down period in which gambling was banned and the downtown area suffered.
But there was a rebirth of the historic downtown and art district with the refurbishing of Bathhouse Row and millions of dollars spent on renovating the historic 523-room Arlington Hotel and its nearby sister, the Majestic Hotel.
Now, downtown Hot Springs (a la historic downtown) is a beautiful and interesting place to visit, with Hot Springs Mountain spilling its steamy water flow each day and the National Park Service providing lots of acres for hiking and sightseeing.
You can visit some of the old bathhouses (or hotels such as the Arlington) for a private dousing that has proven to be an invigorating experience for millions over the years. You can also find dozens of speciality bars, restaurants, and interesting shops in the old district.
Hot Springs has lots to offer other than its beautiful old historic district, including:
-- Hot Springs National Park, the first national park in the U. S. As described by the National Park Service: "For centuries, this misty Ouachita mountain valley was revered by Native Americans as a place of neutrality where all tribes could bathe in peace. In 1832 Congress set aside the natural hot springs site as a federal reservation, making Hot Springs National Park the first federally protected area in the national park system. Until the advent of modern medicine in the late 1940's, visitors from around the world flocked to the natural hot springs to bathe in its healing thermal waters. Modern generations have carefully preserved the rich history of the springs and the bathing rituals that made the springs a world attraction. Cool mineral water also flows from these magical springs, and when you visit Bathhouse Row in Hot Springs National Park, you'll probably see folks driving up in their cars, hopping out and filling up their water jugs. Take a sip and see how delicious Hot Springs' hot or cold water can be." You can actually buy plastic jugs (about 80 cents each) in the historic district steets if you want to take home some free Hot Springs natural water. You can also take a step back in time and visit the faithfully-restored historic Fordyce Bathhouse, now open by the National Park Service as a museum and visitors center on Bathhouse Row.
-- Oaklawn Park thoroughbred racing: This track is 104 years old and in 2009 was rated one of America's top 10 thoroughbred race tracks by the Horseplayers Association of North America. Political problems in the state forced the closure of Oaklawn in 1907 but it reopened in 1916. For several decades the track has become a favorite of hundreds of thousands of racing aficionados from across mid-America. The track's 2009 season started in January and runs through April 11, the date of the Arkansas Derby. The track is part of a large complex that includes a gaming casino (which is now being more than doubled in size) and also includes simulcast betting in which gamblers can bet on other races at tracks throughout the country.
-- Arlington Hotel: This beautiful old stone building is the Grand Dame of hoteliery in Arkansas. As described in hotel literature: "The colorful history of the three eras of Arlington hotels is not architectural beauty and uniqueness alone. Always the center of activities in Hot Springs, the Arlington has hosted hundreds of grand balls and social events since 1875. Politicians, dignitaries, actors, gangsters and entertainment and sports legends bathed in our bath house, danced to our music and enjoyed our splendor and charm. The Arlington has survived a devastating fire, economic downturns, changing social attitudes and much more. Steeped in history, The Arlington is truly a legend." The present Arlington opened Dec. 31, 1924, with a gala New Year’s Eve dinner dance. Although the third Arlington architecturally differs from the first two, there is one holdover – the twin towers. Originally opened in 1875, The Arlington is a Hot Springs treasure. Its original wooden structure was three stories high and boasted 120 guest rooms, making it the largest in the state in that era. Gas lights illuminated the spacious rooms and there was a grand court between the structures’ two wings. The Arlington’s luxurious accommodations and location in America’s Spa City have attracted many famous guests including U.S. presidents Franklin Roosevelt, Harry Truman, George H.W. Bush, and native son Bill Clinton. Many baseball greats such as Babe Ruth as well as championship boxers have relaxed and enjoyed the thermal baths at the Arlington. Stars such as Tony Bennett, Barbra Streisand and Yoko Ono have all luxuriated at the hotel. Al Capone, whose favorite room was 442, had the whole floor for his staff and bodyguards. He could look across the street from his window and see the activities at the Southern Club, now the Wax Museum. The hotel provides full spa service and has three restaurants and two swimming pools and a large natural springs hot tub.


-- The water: The springs produce more than 800,000 gallons of water a day at an average temperature of 143 degrees. The water that flows from the springs today took over 4,000 years to filter down through the sedimentary layers. The heating of the water is caused not by magma or geothermal activity, but by intense pressure as the water is forced back to the surface through small fissures. The mineral waters of the springs have a reputation for healing illnesses and afflictions for those who drink it or bathe in the waters. Metaphysical circles believe that the veins of quartz running through and beneath the springs lend their healing energies to the waters. The flowing water is captured in huge holding tanks and then is distributed to various Hot Springs hotels and other businesses. There is also miles and miles of water in and around Hot Springs in the form of lakes: Lake Hamilton, Lake Ouachita, Lake Catherine and DeGray Lake – with plenty of opportunities for swimming, boating, fishing and other water activities. The lakes are also among the cleanest and most scenic in the nation. With so much waterline, finding hotel/motel/condo accommodations along the water is very easy.

-- The Bathhouses: The Buckstaff is the last stand-alone bathhouse operating along the row, although several hotels--including the landmark Arlington--still maintain their own bathhouses. Operating continuously since 1912, the Buckstaff has about 30,000 annual visitors and a staff of 40 who help bathe, massage and pamper for as little as $15 per person.

-- Magic Springs and Crystal Falls: Two parks for the price of one! Magic Springs and Crystal Falls offer over 75 attractions including the multi-million dollar Arkansas Twister roller coaster and the largest water park in Arkansas; the only theme park located in a national park; named as one of the three most family friendly parks in the nation by Better Homes and Gardens magazine. Thrill rides include the X-Coaster, Plummet Summit and The Gauntlet. New to Crystal Falls is Crystal Lagoon, seven brightly-colored slides (three are body-only slides, four are tube slides) plus a play pool; High Sierra Slide Tower, Crystal Falls Wave Pool, Kodiak Canyon Lazy River; Bear Cub Bend for smaller children.

Additional attractions for Hot Springs include the Hot Springs Convention Center and its expansion to 360,000 square feet facility, a new $27 million sports/entertainment arena (Sumitt Arena), the $35 million, 252-room Embassy Hotel, the botanical wonder, Garvan Woodland Gardens, near Hot Springs, offers year-round natural beauty. And Hot Springs Municipal Airport may not be as big as Little Rock National Airport, 50 miles away, but it does serve several major airlines.

Located approximately three miles from Hot Springs is another geographic anomaly called Hell’s Half Acre. It is a two-acre plot completely barren of vegetation, and it has geologists puzzled. Native Americans believed it to have been created by the Great Spirit placing his thumbprint upon the earth, while others believe it to be cursed. Hell's Half Acre is also host to a "bottomless pit" that is said to house the devil. Locals avoid it and claim that eerie sounds can be heard emanating from the depths. According to several reputable sources, it as also believed to be a major energy vortex.

About 12 miles east of Hot Springs lies the very magnetic "Magnet Cove," one of only three places in the world to have more than 60 different minerals located in a one mile square radius.

The population of Hot Springs is about 36,000 in the city and 75,000 in the urban area.

If you want to take a tour of Hot Springs and its lake area one way to do it is to take a ride on the "Ducks" -- amphibious vehicles that travel on both land and water. Numerous lake/land tours are conducted each day.

For more information about Hot Springs or the Arlington Hotel and other local items of interest contact the Hot Springs Tourism Bureau at www.hotsprings.org, the Arlington Hotel at www.arlingtonhotel.com (or call 800-643-1502 or 501-623-7771) or Magic Springs/Crystal Falls at www.magicsprings.com.

This story was published on 27 Mar 2009.