SAVANNAH, Ga. -- It seems almost disrespecful to walk around Savannah and not take your hat off.
There is so much beauty and history here that its aura seems to command a certain degree of respect.
Savannah is truly the Showplace City of the South.
I found that Savannah is almost like half a dozen cities combined into one lovely package.
This is a planned city and it was planned well.
The original old city was laid out in a grid pattern of 21 squares, each with parks, statuary honoring those who helped shape the city's history, fountains and flora that beckons you to stop awhile at each, taking in the beauty and history at every turn. Each oasis-like squares have individual personalities, with residential side streets on each.
Savannah has been voted as one of America's 10 "most walkable" cities and it certainly is deserving. In about a 2.5-mile square area of the old city the streets are all on a level plain and offer a veritable cookie jar of delights. The historic square district is about 20 blocks long and 12 blocks wide.
In 1773, Gen. James Oglethorpe, who chartered the colony of Georgia, mapped out the city in a series of garden squares while camping on a bluff beside the Savannah River. Uniquely, Gen. Oglethorpe said the new city would not allow either rum or lawyers, with "every man to have his own say." The ban on lawyers and rum only lasted a few years, however.
The old city is filled with historic homes, ancient churches, great architecture, unique boutiques/speciality shops, beautiful bed and breakfasts and dozens of restaurants and hotels. There are some 50 antique stores in the old city alone.
And that is not even considering the city's waterfront -- where River Street provides a beautiful view of the river and a large array of shops and restaurants.
Savannah is beautiful at any time of the year, but it takes on an even lovelier glow in the springtime when it becomes sort of like a Southern belle all dressed up for the ball. The city's century-old Spanish moss- draped live oaks, filigreed wrought-iron balconies, colorful horse-drawn carriages, and micro gardens provide great backdrops for blooming azaleas, dogwoods and lilacs -- transforming the city into a sort of elaborate garden show.
Ahhhh, Savannah . . . you have few peers.
Located near where the Savannah River flows into the Atlantic, Savannah became a premiere waterport in its infancy. And when the cotton gin came along Savannah became a city of incredible wealth. With wealth comes large grandiose homes, ornate churches and an opulent lifestyle.
All boded well for Savannah during those golden years, but then along came a thing called the Civil War and much of the South was ravaged. But when Union General William Tecumseh Sherman finally ended his "march to the sea" at Savannah in December 1865 he decided to spare the city. He had spent a lot of time in the area in his younger years and had developed an admiration and respect for the city.
He moved himself and a few of his officers into one of the city's grand homes (now the Green-St. John Church Parish home, open for public tours) and sent off a telegram to President Lincoln telling him "Mr. President I present to you as a Christmas present the city of Savannah, along with 25,000 bales of cotton."
Many Savannah residents lost businesses and homes due to the war and for many years thereafter the huge riverfront warehouses which once housed large stores of cotton stood empty and many elaborate homes fell into disrepair.
Savannah remained in a somewhat limbo state for decades until a major restoration program began in the 1950s. That program is ongoing even now, but about 1,200 major historic homes and buildings have already been restored to their original sparkle.
Today, the deep-water port at the Savannah River has made Savannah one of the top four container shipping locations in America.
Of course, Savannah over-all is a city of some 150,000 people (300,000 metro) and offers all the modern shopping, restaurants and hotels to be found in any significant city.
But its the old city that makes Savannah one of the most visited cities in America.
I found that a great way to get to know the historic district is to take one of the many guided tours offered (by bus, trolley, carriage, etc.). The guides are very knowledgeable and give you basic info about the major historic areas. Some of the tours allow visitors to get off to spend as much time as need at any locale and then reboard later. A stop at the Visitor's Center can get you off on the right foot.
. Among the historic points of interest on the tours is the childhood home of Flannery O'Connor, the site where "Jingle Bells" was composed in 1857, the statue of the Waving Girl (which memorializes a woman, who stood on the bluff every day for 44 years, waving to approaching ships), the 1848 Andrew Low House, (where in 1912 Juliette Gordon Low founded the Girl Scouts), the Wayne-Gordon House (the city's first registered national historic landmark), the 1820 Isaiah Davenport House (once due become a parking lot until concerned citizens saved it, helping start the Historic Savannah Foundation), Forsyth Park (a 20-acre park featuring a beautiful huge fountain that was ordered from a French catalog and is said to be a replica of the fountain at the Place de la Concorde in Paris). Also on many tour stops is the Bonaventure Cemetery, made famous by the book, and the site of the "Bird Girl" pictured on its cover (several of the city's early leaders are buried here and the site is so beautiful that many people have picnics there), and the historic riverfront district, where riverboats cruise the waterfront and the old cobblestone roads fill with street performers. The riverfront probably has more candy shops than any street in the country.
There are several specialty tours available, including boat, architecture, ghost, history -- and guided walking tours.
Only about 16 miles from Savannah is Tybee Island, which offers great beaches, seafood restaurants and a pretty 1736 lighthouse.
There are dozens of good restaurants in the old city and surrounding city, and among the most famous is The Olde Pink House on Reynolds square, The Lady and Sons' luncheon buffet, which includes cheese biscuits, fried chicken and cobbler. And, TV chef Paula Dean has a restaurant and gift shop here, too.
Savannah has several special events and festivals, including an annual Tour of Homes & Gardens in March and another big gardens tour in April.
The Savannah regional airport is about 15 miles from downtown. Since old city Savannah is basically an easy walking district, a rental car isn't really needed, unless you would like to visit some of the outlying attractions or beaches (and Hilton Head and Charleston are less than an hour away). By car, Savannah is just off Interstate 95.
For more information contact the Savannah Convention and Visitor's Bureau, 101 E. Bay Street (PO Box 1628), Savannah, Ga., 31402, or call 912-644-6401, 877-728-2662 (Fax: 912-944-6499) or visit the official visitor bureau website at www.savannahvisit.com

This story was published on 06 Feb 2008.