OLD....BUT FUN

St. Augustine, Fla., Has Lots Of

Entertainment Mixed With History

By Ken Paul Mink

ST. AUGUSTINE, Fla.-- It's a documented historical fact that St. Augustine is America's Oldest City.

But I have visited practically every nook and cranny of Florida and have seen all its significant tourist points and I feel like St. Augustine deserves an even better sobriquet. I feel like St. Augustine should also be known as Florida's Most Interesting City.

Lots of Florida cities have plenty of sun and sand, but St. Augustine has all that and so much more: It's history, shopping, culture, cuisine, interesting architecture, sports, beautiful churches, parks, and colorful B&Bs; make up a combination that provide visitors an imposing variety of treats.

The city's Old Town is such a wonderful place to stay and play.

The Old Town area is only about one square mile and overlooks the Matanzas Bay in the shadow of the city's 311-year-old Spanish fortress. You can park your car at a bed and breakfast or hotel and spend delightful hours strolling the old streets (some brick), checking out the dozens of quaint shops and boutiques, nook restaurants, museums and historic points of interest.

Or. you can simply stroll along the oceanfront and join lots of other white-sneakered tourists relaxing on the many benches dotting the Bayfront walkway.

I found St. Augustine to be a wonderful place to just stroll around exploring. The AAA agency agrees, ranking St. Augustine as one of America's top 10 "Most Walkable" cities.

Some of the more interesting places I discovered:

* Be sure to check out the Flagler College main building entrance (open to visitors). The college is in what was once a luxury hotel called the Ponce de Leon, the first of several magnificent hotels built by railroad/oil billionaire Henry Flagler (one of the founders of Standard Oil, now Exxon). The hotel was built by Flagler in 1887 as a watering hole for the rich and famous visiting Florida (the list of dignitaries who stayed there is a mile long). With its exterior highlighted by huge entranceway columns, a large fountain, walkways along a large grassy lawn, statuary and stonework the building is reminiscent of a Spanish palace. Walk up the stone steps to the front entrance and step into the rotunda and you are taken back to an era of opulence perhaps never again to be duplicated in America. The gold leaf artwork, colorful tile chip floor and 50-foot high rotunda ceiling is breathtakingly beautiful. The hotel is a wonderful well-preserved example of Spanish Renaissance architecture (recently named a National Historic Landmark). Flagler College is a 35-year-old coed liberal arts school of about 2,150 students, who pay about $8,600 a year to attend (instate or out-of-state students). Today, the building is used for dorm rooms and administrative offices, and the Tiffany glass-lined dining hall is where students eat breakfast, lunch and dinner. In addition, there are student-run history tours for the public to view restored sections of the Ponce like the former parlor room, the rotunda and courtyard, and the Dining Hall. Flagler College has invested more than $23 million in restoration and preservation efforts on the Ponce and its surrounding historic properties over the years.

* Lightner Museum is another location tied to Henry Flagler as the facility is in another of Flagler's former upscale hotels and is right across the street from the former Ponce de Leon Hotel at Flagler College. The building once housed the opulent Spanish Renaissance-style Alcazar Hotel, built in 1889. The hotel closed during the Great Depression and remained empty until Chicago publishing millionaire Otto C. Lightner bought the building in 1948 to house his vast collection of Victoriana. The exterior of this building, too, presents a very-pleasant park-like atmosphere, with a courtyard featuring palm trees, a Koi-filled fish pond and arched stone bridge. The first floor houses a Victorian village, with shop fronts representing emporia selling period wares. The Victorian Science and Industry Room displays shells, rocks, minerals, and Native American artifacts in beautiful turn-of-the-20th-century cases. Other exhibits include stuffed birds, an Egyptian mummy, steam-engine models, and amazing examples of Victorian glassblowing. There are four floors of eclectic items of interest and one could spend hours there and not see it all. One floor includes a look a turn-of-the-century steam room and a cafe is located in what was once a huge indoor swimming pool. If you visit at 11 a.m. or 2 p.m. you will be serenaded by a room of automated musical instruments.

* Castillo de San Marcos is perhaps the most visited of St. Augustine's attractions, because the old fort is the largest and most visible of any site in the city, sitting prominently along the edge of Old Town and primarily facing the St. Augustine inlet to the sea. Once the northernmost outpost of Spain's empire in the New World, construction on the Castillo was begun in 1672 and completed 23 years later. The Castillo was twice besieged by the British -- once for 50 days in 1702 and again during a 27-day bombardment in 1740. Both times, the Castillo held fast against its attackers.



As the city's official historical documents proclaim: "Politics, however, succeeded where cannon failed. In 1763, Spain gave Florida to the British in exchange for Havana, Cuba. For the next 20 years, the huge edifice was known as Fort St. Mark. In 1783, Florida was returned to Spain's control. The Second Spanish Period ended in 1821 when Spain gave Florida to the United States, and in 1825 the name was again changed -- this time to Fort Marion. During the ensuing years the old structure was used, at various times, to house Indian prisoners during the Seminole Wars; to house Confederate soldiers during the Civil War; for holding Plains Indians captured during western campaigns; and as a military prison during the Spanish American War. In 1924, both the Castillo de San Marcos and its sister structure -- Fort Matanzas, which was built by the Spanish from 1740-42 to protect the southern approach to St. Augustine -- were proclaimed national monuments. Nine years later, both were turned over to the National Park Service."

* Alligator Farm Zoological Park is not just your typical small pond with a couple dozen gators. This place is huge, with wooden walkways meandering throughout several acres of interesting exhibitions of birds, mammals, alligators and crocodiles. They even have some rare white (albino) alligators. The attraction is one of the oldest in Florida, first opening on May 20, 1893. The park has literally hundreds of alligators and crocodiles, ranging from small ones to some over 13 feet. The world's largest croc, Maximo, lived at the park for years and after his death he was stuffed and put on display for visitors. Special films and animal performances are presented daily, along with educational exhibits. The address is 999 Anastasia Boulevard, about two miles from Old Town across the famed Bridge of Lions toward the beach.

In Spanish, "matanzas" means "slaughters," and derives from the many conflicts here in which bodies were often just literally tossed into the bay. Many Spanish, French, English and Indian people were killed here during the turbulent settlement years as European nations struggled to see who could best plunder this new land.

St. Augustine certainly correctly bills itself as America's oldest city, predating Jamestown, Va., by 42 years and Plymouth, Mass., by 55. The city also lays claim to numerous other "oldest" titles, including oldest wooden schoolhouse (1804), drug store, house (1704), and masonry fort (1695). Other historic sites include the original Ripley's Believe It or Not Museum.

While much of America recognizes the New England Pilgrim/Indians fall feast as the beginning of Thanksgiving in this country, in fact settlers and native Indians got together here decades earlier to celebrate harvest yields. The city annually celebrates its own version of Thanksgiving with special events and dinners using ingredients and foods available during the settlement years.

St. Augustine also has some, perhaps arguably the best, beachfront in Florida, with 42 miles of glorious sand and surf (some of the beach area permits motorized traffic). An impressive lighthouse also guards the bay (visitors welcome). The bay is large enough to enable lots of calm-water sailing and boating (fishing and recreational boat rentals are available).

Golf and tennis are big in the St. Augustine area and there is no shortage of facilities. The World Golf Village and Hall of Fame is less than 10 miles from the Old Town area and offers two world-class courses for public play: The King and the Bear (Arnold Palmer/Jack Nicklaus designers) and The Slammer and the Squire (a tribute to Sam Snead and Gene Sarazen). I had the privilege of playing The Slammer and the Squire and loved it. There are various tee distances available for all levels of play and the ample fairways ease the pain of wayward shots. The course also features modern global positioning system (GPS) golf carts and even offers golfers a free chilled big red apple at the first and tenth tees. The clubhouses at both courses are first class and offer full services and dining. The World Golf Hall of Fame is a must-see for any avid golfer, offering several floors of film, golf antiques, exhibits and even lets visitors test their skill at a special putting area. The courses regularly get 4-5 star ratings by Golf Digest magazine and each have hosted several national tournaments and specially-televised events. Each is owned and operated by Honours Golf. Amenities also include free range balls and cooled towels.

The St. Augustine Old Town is so quaint that about 20 movies have been shot there (dating back to the silent film era), including a recent one, "The Celestine Prophecy," completed in the spring of 2006.

One of the big plusses of St. Augustine is the large number of bed and breakfast locations in the Old Town area. Many of these B&Bs; are located in historic old homes and provide unique lodging in addition to dynamite breakfasts (some also offer dinner meals). I had the pleasure of staying in two of these B&Bs;: The Inn on Charlotte and the Casa de Solana.

The Inn on Charlotte is in the heart of Old Town and is an ideal location to explore the city's many restaurants, shops, and attractions. The home, built in 1918 (remodeled and restored in 2003) offers eight superbly appointed guestrooms (some with street-side balconies). Each room has a private bath (seven of which have a Jacuzzi), cable TV, Internet access, phone, ceiling fan, gas fireplace, microwave, copier, fax machine and many other amenities. You also get free on-site parking. Plus, Innkeeper Lynn Fairfield whips up delicious breakfasts each day. Rates range from $139 to $289 daily. The Inn on Charlotte is also a member of the Inns of Elegance, a group of St. Augustine B&Bs; offering especially high-quality service and facilities. For information, call 800-355-5508 or visit the Inn's website at www.innoncharlotte.com.

Casa de Solana is located on the city's oldest street, Aviles St., a bricked roadway that enables guests to hear the clop-clop-clop of horse drawn carriages carrying tourists on visits through the city. The building dates to the 1800s, but is modern in all respects, featuring newly renovated antique-filled rooms and suites. The inn is located within a quiet walled courtyard, bordered by beautiful tropical flowers and shrubs. Everything is within easy walking distance. Special facilities for small group functions, weddings and meetings. Romance, history and other packages available. Breakfast menus change daily and are very tasty. The Innkeeper is Joe Finnegan. For toll-free info call 888-796-0980. Casa de Solana features 10 guest rooms and suites, each unique and individually appointed. Every room has color-cable television, telephone, modem hook-up, ac/heat controls, and private bath. For added romance, 8 of the 10 accommodations have fireplaces and most have whirlpool tubs. Many also have a writing desk and refrigerator. Suites include a queen sized sleep sofa in the living area. Full breakfasts are included, always including two hot homemade entrees, freshly baked pastries, fresh fruit, special blend Inn coffees, and a full serving of Inn hospitality. Guests also enjoy the Inn's evening social, a natural setting for meeting other guests over complimentary beverages and delicious hors d'oeuvres. For information contact the Inn's website at www.casadesola.com or call 888-796-0980.

St. Augustine presents dozens of festivals and special events throughout the year, so there is always something going on. During November-December the city lights up its Old Town area with more than a million white lights, creating a wonderland of light.

The city has several areas which are reportedly inhabited by ghosts and more than half a dozen ghost tours are offered daily. Also, in addition of horse drawn carriage tours, motorized informational tours are available several times daily.

St. Augustine has a population of only about 12,000 and is located on U. S. Highway 1-1A, about 25 miles south of Jacksonville, Fla. For more information on St. Augustine visit the St. Augustine, Pont Vedra & The Beaches Visitors and Convention Bureau website www.Getaway4Florida.com.

This story was published on 04 Dec 2006.